Kyllini retains its mild beauty in autumn, although it is in the summers that it is at its glory. Photo.
Hosting one of the two ports of Ilia (the other being Katakolon), Kyllini’s quiet, flat landscape becomes the scene for the busy ferry rides to Zakynthos and Kefalonia, as well as for amazing sailing cruises on the Ionian Sea. At the same time, however, it is also a place with nice cafes, two or three nice little tavernas and decent hotels, which has its own (measured) nightlife.
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Its name is first mentioned in the “Iliad” and is due to Mount Kyllini, where the Arcadian founders came from. After the fall of Constantinople in 1204, the Frankish conquerors of the Peloponnese founded the fortified city of Glarenza (Clarence) here, which became a major Mediterranean port. Afterwards, of course, it kept changing masters, and as a result it declined. Thus, in 1428 Constantine Palaiologos – who closed the Byzantine Empire chapter – razed it to the ground to prevent it from falling into the hands of pirates.
As a small settlement of Ilia, since then, Kyllini was inhabited after the Greek Revolution, first by Ionian people and later by refugees of the Asia Minor Catastrophe. Indeed, some of those refugee houses still stand in their place, in the settlement of Kato Panagia.
In the summers, the port of Kyllini hosts the busy ferry service to Zakynthos and Kefalonia. Photo.
At first glance, nothing betrays what is special and impressive awaits the traveller: vast, sandy beaches (surfers’ favourites), luxurious, five-star hotels (but also small, well-kept accommodation and camping), thermal baths, and the islet of Kaikalida with its lighthouse.
Just a few kilometres away, meanwhile, one finds the picturesque village of Kastro, with the Frankish fortress of Chlemoutsi, the village of Arkoudi with its famous beaches and the monastery of Panagia Vlacherna. And if you have archaeological and naturalistic concerns, the ancient Olympia, the waterfalls of the Neda River and the temple of Apollo Epicurean. The more active ones, of course, might consider taking the ferry and going on a day trip to Zakynthos, for coffee or lunch: the whole trip takes an hour and a half, so there’s plenty of time for a first introduction to the beautiful “Zante”.
In short, Kyllini can offer a solid fan of experiences (naturalistic, archaeological, religious) at any time of the year, not counting its wonderful beaches. Even a lightning trip to the charming Ionian Islands.
The islet of Kavkalida with its characteristic lighthouse. Photo.
In Kaikalida
Kaikalida is the name of the rocky islet opposite the port of Kyllini, which has as its main feature a lonely, very beautiful, stone-built lighthouse, facing Mount Ainos of Kefalonia. It joins the edge of the Glarentza site through small reefs (rocks just below the water) and shallow parts of the sea.
The lighthouse has been standing undeterred by the momentum of the Ionian waves for 115 years, since 1906, safely guiding ships coming and going to Zakynthos. On the island you will also see Roman tombs and the ruins of an early Christian church. You can get there either by stepping on the aforementioned rocks, by boat or by swimming. If you prefer boating, when the weather is good, it is also worth reaching the beaches opposite, which are deserted and wonderful.
The Holy Monastery of Panagia Vlaherna is an important religious attraction, just 2.5 km from Kyllini. Photo.
Holy Monastery of Panagia Vlaherna (Monastery of the Birth of the Virgin Mary)
Just 2.5 km from Kyllini, in a secluded valley of the refugee settlement of Kato Panagia, full of old olive trees, is the historic Monastery of Vlaherna, dedicated to the Nativity of the Virgin Mary – named in memory of the famous monastery of the same name in Constantinople. It was founded around the 12th or 13th century and today, completely reconstructed, it houses a retirement home for women (it is a nunnery).
According to the Holy Archdiocese of Athens, ‘its construction seems to have been completed by the Franks, who occupied the area in 1205’. Indeed, inside the church (the church’s katholikon is a three-aisled wood-roofed basilica) you can see the tombs of Frankish rulers with Latin inscriptions and decorated coats of arms. The Franks are also credited with the white marble sundial in the exonarthex. The magnificent landscape – green and secluded – is characterised by serenity, making this unique church with its Gothic and Byzantine elements a place for meditation and peace of mind.
During the 15th and 16th centuries the monastery was in the hands of the Latin monks of the Order of the Frémenours, passing back into Orthodox hands in the 17th century, when it became a crusader monastery. In 1826 it was burnt down by the troops of Ibrahim, and was then deserted: it was reopened in 1978. In its library are kept documents, books, Gospels, silver ecclesiastical vessels, crosses, vestments, reliquaries, etc. Inside there are relics of saints such as Agios Georgios, Agios Panteleimonos, Agios Barbara, Agios Charalambos and Agios Dionysios, while the interior of the church is painted with wonderful paintings from the mid-18th century. It is celebrated on 8 September.
Just 3 km away from Kyllini is the picturesque village of Kastro. Photo.
The village of Kastro and the fortress of Chlemoutsi
Just 3 kilometres from Kyllini is Kastro: a dreamy semi-mountainous village, set on green hills with olive groves, with wonderful sea views of the deep blue Ionian Sea. The famous castle of Chlemoutsi, which has been standing intact since the time of the Frankish occupation, for more than 800 years.
Its foundation was completed in 1223 by the troops of William Champlites and Godefroid Villehardouin, who founded the Principality of Achaia. The Frankish name Clermont was then changed to Chlemoutsi by the Greeks, and over the centuries the fortress changed hands many times, until it was surrendered by the Venetians to the Turks in 1715. It remained in their hands until the liberation of Greece from Ottoman rule in 1830.
In a hexagonal shape, with two fortified enclosures, towers and an inner courtyard, it still proudly controls the passage between Kyllini and Zakynthos, hegemonically overseeing the present village. Inside its walls, which rise to 10 metres, you will see the throne room, kitchens and even a chapel, since the Prince used to stay there at times.
The Castle’s famous fortress, Chlemucci, reflects the medieval roots of the present-day village. Photo.
But the feeling of living in the Middle Ages, among the knights, listening to the clanging of their weapons and the neighing of horses, is heightened by a visit to the Castle Museum. Located in the inner courtyard, it hosts the fascinating, permanent exhibition “The Age of the Knights: The Crusaders in the Moria”, with (around) 500 objects from the 13th to the 15th century. The fact that they are all placed in their natural environment, where you would normally see them if you took a trip into the past, creates the impression that you are looking at a living part of it. Finally, if you are here in the summer, you will have the opportunity to experience the pulse of the Medieval Revival Festival, immersing yourself even more delightfully in the origins of the village.
Leaving the medieval past behind, now, the modern village has a whole range of wonderfully stretched out, sandy beaches to offer – the Gold Coast is delightful – with trees sometimes reaching up to the waves. Here you can certainly swim or just take a stroll, in case you venture out in autumn or winter. Tavernas, cafes and beach bars are all at your disposal when the weather is good, depending of course on how you have imagined your perfect weekend.
Kyllini Loutra is located in a lush green location, just 6 km from Kyllini. Photo.
In the Loutra of Kyllini
Located 6 kilometres from Kyllini are the famous baths of the area: thermal, hydro-sulphur, hydro-sulphuric, sodium chloride springs, which are located in a small valley, forming sandy hills just 300 metres from the sea. In addition to bathing, here you can also do mud therapy, inhalation therapy and drinking therapy (drinking the water, that is). The natural area surrounding them is lush green, with huge eucalyptus trees, which were brought here from France under the care of the SPAP (Piraeus-Athens-Athens-Peloponnese Railway) company, which took over the development of the baths in 1889.
At that time, the SPAP built very beautiful facilities – marble baths, an inhalation therapy section, ear and throat sprays, as well as hotels, guesthouses, a park, etc. – which were unfortunately destroyed during the Occupation. It took until 1951, when the EOT took over the Kyllini Baths, for them to start operating again. Since 1998 the area has been rented to the N. Daskalantonakis group, which built luxury hotels and a hydrotherapy centre.
The village of Arkoudi with its colourful, well-appointed houses. Photo.
In Arkoudi
Arkoudi is a green village with a lovely beach, nestled in a small cove: in summer, especially, the sunset here is incredible. Located 2km away from Kyllini Baths, it has a romantic feel and colourful, well-appointed houses, and gives off a welcome island feel. On the plus side, there are good hotels, tavernas overlooking the Ionian Sea, cafes and bars. On reaching here you’ll definitely take a dip at Glyfa beach, about 4km down the road – usually as calm as oil.
Even further afield, Thines-Vartholomio beach in Chelonitis Bay is worth the extra kilometres. At 7,300 metres long and 30 metres wide, it makes you feel like a king. The lilies of the sand (especially in spring), the water sports in full swing in summer, the slow, long days in autumn and winter have an unsurpassed grace.
In the garden of “Ambrosia”, in Arkoudi, you will enjoy well-tended food. Photo.
Food options
In Kyllini
-The family tavern “Sea Garden” (697 412 0293), centrally located in the port, will serve you delicious sardines, squid, meat and proper potatoes. The decoration, with its large whale jaw and dried fish, also has its charm.
– At Stiva (2623 092045), with its cool courtyard, you can order lemon prawns, octopus with vinegar and garlic eggplant, as well as baked shank and local chicken.
At the Kastro
-At the pleasant “Kalamia” (697 097 3500), on the sea front, you will eat mainly fish soup, grilled mussels, grilled squid with taramosalata, sardines with chopped tomato, and chicken with orzo and celery.
-The “Kastro” (697 097 3500), again, keeps the classic Greek tradition, offering many homemade stews.
In Arkoudi
Head to the lush green garden of “Amvrosia” (26230/96047). There, under its mulberry trees, you will enjoy friendly service and tidy food, on tables covered with tablecloths: tomato meatballs, pork steak, beef fillet, risotto, fried calamari, crispy potatoes.